Canyon del Pato

Finally found some reliable wifi signal.


Dec 21

We decide to stop in Santa, which is only 12km North of Chimote, the nice little town has that quaint feeling we like and there are a few Hotel options to choose from. Little did we know that the next morning we would be riding into Chimbote to find a bank machine, oh well, it was only a 24km detour and it allowed us to see the Malecon and all the fishing boats moored in the marina area.

Traffic Jam.

We ended up back in Santa for breakfast, which was a tasty bowl of soup called Caldo de Gallina, basically chicken noodle soup with a whole boiled egg and a whole piece of chicken thrown in. The route from Santa takes off in a North East direction through a bit of farm land then into the rock gardens of the Andes. We are following the Rio Santa which has a surprisingly fast current considering it does not look like it has rained here for a long time. We come to the first older bridge of the day and I make my way across without stopping to access the condition of the bridge. Part way across it becomes apparent that the planks of the bridge are not securely fastened and some have been replaced with split logs and any other wood that could be scavenged. The best ones were either tied down with wire or held in place with rebar anchors. I called back for Brenda to stop and take some pictures, after that she did not want to ride across so I got to do it twice.

As mentioned this was the first of the old bridges, we crossed about 5 more before realizing we missed the turn towards Caraz somewhere. After consulting with the GPS we realized that it was 40km back, at the first old bridge, great, we not only get to backtrack but we get to cross all the rickety bridges again, or should I say that I get to cross all of them for a second time, Brenda did not like them after a small spill coming off the end of a plank and jamming her front tire. No injuries, but a broken mirror and temporary shaken confidence.

Back at the the first bridge it is apparent why we missed the turn, I was focused on the bridge and not looking at the surroundings or GPS. The gravel branch road starts just before the bridge. This was the longest and most technical of the bridges because some weaving had to be done and in some places there was only one 6” wide board left, miss that board and you are in for a bad afternoon of trying to retrieve your bike from between the girders.

I managed both bikes across then decided to reduce the air pressure in the tires for the dirt road section, the reduction of air pressure allows for better traction and handling. Of course what should be 5 minutes turns into a half hour when my front valve core sticks open and all the air is released from the tube. Great, dig out the air pump and fill up the tire, oh wait dig out the spare parts and find a different valve core as this one is sticking open permanently.

Well we are stopped anyway, we might as well have a mango before hitting the dirt. Good thing, because there were not many safe spots to pull over, and if there were there was just enough traffic to coat everything with dust. The road is not overly technical and we make good time as we go deeper into the rock canyon, deeper in, steeper walls.

Bare windswept rock formations line both sides of the canyon, the tectonic plates can be seen at all angles, some vertical and some curling back onto themselves like a massive wave turned to stone.

There is a makeshift truck stop about 30km in and they have all kinds of fruit for sale, sodas, water, even a mechanic for the trucks. I can’t imagine driving a 3ton truck down this road, especially not when we get to the tunnels. Shortly after the Duke Energy power plant we start into the tunnels, one after another after another. Some have curves in them, some go uphill, some are very short and some very long, the one thing they all have in common is that they are narrow and dark.

There are signs to honk your horn before entering but this is Peru, and people don’t much care about signs. We are met by both cars and trucks in the tunnels, some even have their headlights on so they can be seen through the dust and darkness. Thank heavens it is dry, this road would be a total mess in the rain. Before we know it we are back on pavement and flowing through long sweeping curves into Caraz, when we stop for gas we can’t help but repeat ourselves “that was one crazy and amazing piece of road”. The gas station has an air hose so we push the bikes over to pressure up the tires for pavement riding, the valve stem works fine, and the young station attendant was washing his bike with a hose beside the air compressor. I grab the hose and give the bikes a quick rinse, they have not been rinsed since someplace back in Ecuador, the attendant smiles as we push our bikes out of the wash area revealing the dirt pile. Street cred I guess.

Caraz is at an elevation of 2270m so the climate is pleasant without being too hot or cold. In the area are some of the most majestic snow capped mountains in the Andes. This also explains where the river water originates when it is not raining. Ah hell, here is what Wikitravel says.

“Caraz is a popular destination for trekking and day walks into the Huascaran National Park, also offers a much quiter and safer option when compared with Huaraz, in addition the weather (due to the altitude) is gentle and provides a comfortable stay.

Paron Lake, the largest lake on the Cordillera Blanca, 32 km East from the city, at 4200m, surrounded by 15 snow peaks, it's by far a must to see.

Canyon del Pato, a rock formation, resulting from the approach of Cordilleras Blanca and Negra, 22 km north from the city.

Puya Raimondii, the largest flower in the world, it grows at 4200m at Huashta Punta pass, on the Cordillera Negra, 45 km West from the city.

Tumshukayko, a pre inca remain dating about 3000 years old. Fine stone work on what it seems to be a place for worship, 1 km north from the Plaza de Armas.

Santa Cruz valley, 28 km NE from the city, it's the famous 4-day trek Santa Cruz - Llankanuku, that leads to visit the not less famous mounts Alpamayo 5947m (World's Most Beautiful Mountain) and Artesonraju 6025m (Paramount's live logo).

Huascaran National Park, a 340,000H, with access from the valleys Paron, Santa Cruz and Los Cedros. “

 

Sometimes it is just easier to cut and paste but whoever wrote that did not make it easy to read, I guess we missed a few things in the area. Nothing new there...