Merry Christmas Everyone!!

We spend breakfast with a young couple from the Netherlands and two sisters from Austria. We share stories of things we don’t see at home before we go our own way for the rest of the day. 

A Swedish man stopped into the Hostal when he seen our bikes parked out front, he is also travelling by motorcycle and the visit turns into an hour long conversation about bikes, routes, breakdowns and other experiences. Markus is a well travelled fella who spent 7 years in Africa on a motorcycle, 20yrs ago, when Africa was much less civilized than it is today. And that is saying something. 

After that it was time to take a tour of the area including a visit to Malalcahuello National Park. Which is home to the newest volcano in Chile which was formed in 1988 on Christmas Day.

This is what we did on Christmas day.

The crater in front is called Navidad Crater.

And this

And a little of this.

4km long tunnel built in 1930's.

Then ate left over chicken and pasta prima vera before calling it an evening.

Volcanoes and Valleys

Dec. 21-24  San Martin to Pucon

A leisurely breakfast of coffee, yogurt, cereal and croissants in our little hotel is enjoyed sitting in a turret style booth. The waitress is familiar with our coffee habit and every time she serves another table she stops at ours to top up our cups. This is not like a coffee shop at home, they are accustomed to only one maybe two cups of coffee per person at breakfast. The usual practice for us at home has evolved into at least three cups during our morning meeting and breakfast. Maybe we are addicts now, definitely not connoisseurs as we enjoy instant almost as much as fresh brewed.

In any event it is a travel day and we pack the bikes and hit the road. We plan on taking a dirt road over the pass to Chile, so it will be a slower route than the pavement but likely more scenic and less line-ups at the border. As we leave town the route takes us past a very large army base then up into the back country towards the border. Matias had mentioned that the border control was a long way before the actual border and consisted of nothing more than a small shack. We passed by what looked like a police checkpoint but as it was Sunday there was nobody manning the post that we could see so we just carried on hoping that another control station was farther ahead. 

After a bit of beautiful scenery we arrived at the actual border control station, the officer was very friendly when he told us that we were not allowed to proceed. “Por que?” I ask. To which he responds that the road is not open yet, as it is only a summer road, tomorrow it will be open and you can pass then. We thank him and turn around and make our way to the next crossing to the north which is the paved crossing. While riding I had time to think of what he said and it made sense, sort of. Today, Sunday Dec. 21^st, is the first official day of summer as it is the solstice, tomorrow is the first business day of summer and thus the road will be open as it will officially be summer. 

In any event, we make our way on the alternate gravel route back to the highway and into Chile at the Tromen crossing. The scenery is once again beyond words, and we just enjoy the ride and try not to get distracted long enough to ride off the road.

Our destination of Pucon is on the East end of Lake Villarrica, and is very much developed for tourism.

There are numerous hot springs in the area due to all the volcanoes in the area, these vary in size and style from all natural pools to the more developed “swimming pool” style like at Radium or Banff. Allong with all these mountains there is of course all kinds of hiking, mountain lakes for swimming and boating, mountain biking, and skiing in the winter.

We decide that if we are going to partake in a hot spring it is going to be as natural as possible and hopefully we can pick one that is not very busy at the same time. We do some calculating and  determine that the one farthest from town and on the worst road should be the least busy if not the most natural. We pack up and head out to find Termas San Sebastian, 85 km from town, 55km of gravel road from any direction. We were pleased to find very little traffic and lots of fantastic mountain and valley vistas along the way to our almost deserted hot springs. Upon arrival Brenda mentioned that her bike felt a little wobbly in the last couple of miles and further investigation revealed a punctured rear tire.

Fix now or later...Later. I was anxious to get into the hot springs and relax. There were different types of tubs to enjoy. Some were made of concrete and rock, others were made out of wood. One large piece of wood actually. Two tubs were made from very large hollowed out tree, the hot water is plumbed into the side and a drain hole near the top allows for the water to escape into the river in a controlled fashion. There is also a cold water spigot to help control the temperature in the tub. This was awesome, and soon enough we had steam rolling off the top of the water. The river water was not so warm, it was very cold actually, especially in comparison to the hot tub, jumping back and forth was exhilarating.

I figured it would take about an hour to fix the flat tire, so by 4pm it was time to put on my mechanics apron and get to work. By 5 pm the repaired tire was back on we were ready to hit the dusty trail back to Pucon. 

Seems like a waste really, get all relaxed in the tub then pound ourselves on the gravel road back to town. It really didn’t matter, by the time we got to town, hung up our wet cloths and ate supper, it was all we could do to stay awake.

Dog of the Day

Ahh, another crisp morning which quickly warms to 20C as the sun hit the valley floor. Today we decide we should go see what the beaches are like. The main beaches out of town are Bahia Negra and Bahia Blanca. The names are self explanatory once we see the color of the sand, Negra has black coarse volcanic sand and Blanca has typical fine white sand. It is puzzling because the beaches are only about 2km apart if you follow the shoreline. Being early in the season the beaches are not very busy yet but the lake is warm and has all sorts of water sport equipment for rent all they need is the heat of summer and a few thousand people.

The area is also home to the oldest active volcano in Chile, Volcano Villarrica, as well as a few others that are now dormant. This is a major tourist attraction as it is possible to hike up to the crater and look inside at the red hot magma. Dr. Evil would be impressed. From there the hikers can slide down on crazy carpets, at least to the snow line, from there it is more hiking back to the base of the volcano which is where the ski hill is located. In winter the ski hill operates on the volcano and surrounding valley.

We have seen into a volcano crater before, it smells like sulphur, it tastes like sulphur, makes your eyes water like sulphur is being sprayed directly into them, I could go on. We decided that it was not worth the 6hr hike and opted for the 30 minute motorcycle ride to the ski hill and a couple of photos of the surround valley. Quite spectacular and no sulphur.

Dec.24 Pucon to Curacautin

We had full intentions of riding to Melipueco today but once we circled the lake, found some nice gravel roads through the valley up to Cunco and then down the highway to Meli it was still only 12pm. Hmmm, kind of early to stop for the day so we decided to push on to Curacautin which is on the north side of Conguillo National Park.

The park is home to Volcano Llaima, and another huge lava flow. Like many other volcanoes in the area Llaima is home to a ski resort in the winter and hiking in the summer. What is more unique is that people are allowed to drive onto the volcano, as far as your vehicle will take you. The bikes are great for this and we soon find ourselves about 4km into the lava field and a good ways up the volcano. It was starting to get softer and deeper so we decided that we had ventured far enough and turned back after a couple of photos.

The rest of the park was just as amazing, driving through huge trees past crystal clear lakes never really gets old. We see hikers and cyclists along the way and as always have sympathy for cyclists as it would be very hard work to pedal in the soft sand that covers the washboard below. Just as golf is often a great way to ruin a nice walk, cycling is a sure way to ruin a nice hike as having to push a loaded mountain bike most of the way takes the enjoyment out of the walk. But I digress.

Curacautin, although a small town of ten thousand, is bustling with last minute Christmas shopping. We check into a very nice Hostal and the host informs us that if we want to get groceries we better hurry because the stores close randomly on Christmas Eve. We quickly change and head out into the holiday festivities of last minute shopping; at least we only need groceries. We have found that the larger chain supermarket has the whole roasted chickens like we have at home, these make it very easy to prepare a meal at the hostal. We add some pasta and fresh veggies to the basket and we are set for a couple of meals. For those who are curious, the groceries here are about the same cost as at home with the exception that the farmer markets are cheaper than the supermarkets not more expensive like at home. Wine and alcohol is inexpensive, a 26oz bottle of brand name rum or vodka is $6CAD. Beer is also cheap I have been drinking wine in order to avoid the hassle of returning the bottle. This is not me being cheap, the system here is that you need the receipt from purchase to get the refund (300pesos on a 1 liter bottle). Without the receipt then the bottles just get discarded or stockpiled in the corner, it seems that they would rather create litter than return them for no refund. This makes no sense in an otherwise environmentally conscious country.

Christmas eve supper of roast chicken and pasta prima vera is delicious.

A little snow to feel at home

Dec 18-19 Angustura to San Martin de Los Andes

The famed 7 Lakes Route was definitely worth the ride and we were glad we did it, there were numerous cyclists on this route as well. We later found out it is one of the most popular roads for cyclists in all of Argentina. The distance is not very far either at about 100km, and there is only about 10km of gravel left to pave and the guys are currently working on that.

We realize rather quickly that San Martin is very much like Angustura in that there is hiking, skiing, mountain biking, and a lake to provide all kinds of outdoor activities. You guessed it the Swiss have also drastically affected the architecture here as well, the only thing missing is a bunch of tall blonde people.

We once again use the tourism booth to assist with finding accommodations as the choices are endless. They are very helpful because they have a list of places and the prices so it is just a matter of asking for a place in the desired price range with the desired requirements of breakfast and parking. Sure enough the first one we check is exactly what we like.

During our walk we see another Xchallenge parked in front of a mountain bike shop. Well, we have to go in and see who own it as they are not very common bikes. The guy in the store, Matias, informs us that the bike belongs to the store owner but he is out wind-surfing at the moment. Did I mention the wind, it is fairly constant at about 25mph, but also warm at 18C, so great weather for wind-surfing. We chat for a while and discuss Matias’ plans to work in Whistler next summer. He says he did not know much about Canada growing up but in the last 10 yrs has been falling in love with our country, mostly due to the mountain bike lifestyle and of course Whistler is Mecca for many riders around the world. He as already started his work visa applications and has a job lined up if it gets approved. He was so excited to talk with Canadians about it because we actually know a bit about Whistler. Matias says that Falvio the owner should be back around 6pm so we continue on our walking tour of the town. 

We enjoy the tour then return to the shop with our bikes to see if Flavio has returned, we just missed him by 10 minutes as he had to go home to see his kids for a bit. Oh, well maybe later after supper we can catch him. He told Matias to take pictures of the bikes in the meantime. Persistence pays off and we finally get to meet Flavio and as expected he is very excited to see two other bikes like his. He is also very helpful with route suggestions and tells us of a Canadian couple from Muskoka that come to San Martin every winter. They own a bicycle shop in Muskoka and because it is very slow in Dec/Jan they close their store and snow-bird down to Argentina. Sounds reasonable to us.

The weather over on the Chile side of the Andes does not look very good so we decide to stay put for another day and see if it clears up bit. We had also made plans to go for a ride with Flavio, unfortunately the rain moved in here and delayed our ride plans but no fear we find some things to do around town between rain showers and naps. We touch base with Flavio and make plans to go for a ride the next day at 2:30 when the shop is closed for siesta.

Flavio is ready to go when we arrive at the shop, he has picked the trail to Laguna Verde (green lagoon) because it has a nice mixture of terrain and it is popular for swimming in after what would be an arduous mountain bike ride. We have motors so it makes it easier, and this early in spring the lake is still very cold so we would not likely go swimming. The road/trail into the lake is a mixture of dirt and shale rock that weaves its’ way through forests and farmland. At one point the ski hill can be seen along with some larger homes that are built in the ski village.

View of the lakefront

View down the lake and valley

One of the rocky sections of the trail

Flavio said something about a friend joining us but until now it is just the three of us, he rides very well considering he said he only started riding motorcycles three years ago. His style of riding is more enduro racer than GS touring so he waits patiently at any forks in the road to ensure we don’t get lost. We later find out that he has been modest in his riding history, he was on the national mountain bike team for 10yrs and competed all over South America and a couple times at Vail Colorado. These riding skills transfer well to motorcycles.

Then the fun starts, we stop to take a couple of pictures at a shale slide and it starts to snow. We all joke that it has to snow to make us Canadians feel at home, more local hospitality. We scope out a tricky downhill section of larger rocks and Brenda decides she is not willing to ride this, actually down would have been fine but we were both concerned about traction on the way up as it was quite steep with loose rocks, oh ya and did I mention it is snowing.

One of the water crossings

At this point Flavio’s friend Martin catches up to us, he is riding a Yamaha WR250R, so he is on a much smaller bike that makes all this technical riding very easy. He just hits the throttle and goes flying down the rock section then does some circles at the bottom while he waits for us to ease down the hill. Brenda walked down this section then jumped on the back of Flavio’s bike for the last kilometer to the lake, which is a short walk off the trail. There is a fire pit nestled under the big trees that must be used by the mountain bikers who decide to either cook lunch or maybe even camp overnight. The lagoon is not very big but is a pretty green color and makes a picturesque scene with the snow falling.

The time at the lake is cut short due to this but we have a bit of riding to do in order to get back out of the bush. The rocky climb is not as bad as anticipated even though it is now thoroughly wet, Brenda is re-united with her bike and climbs the rest of the way up without issues. Hindsight says she could have made it all the way to the lake but rather safe than sorry, we are a long way from home after all. Martin and Flavio are familiar with the trail and they seem to be racing out as Brenda and I putt along enjoying the scenery, especially now that it has stopped snowing. There is a definite snow line up this high and we are glad that it is not snowing or raining in town once we make it back.

We stop at the store to say our goodbyes to Flavio, Martin took off on another trail somewhere on the side of the mountain. We also exchange photos and videos of the ride and learn a bit more about riding in the area as more stories are shared with us. Flavios family shows up and we get to meet his wife and children, his son is 18months old and really enjoys his push-bike, or maybe he just likes his Dad’s helmet.

After a short visit it is time to let the guys close up shop and get on with their evening, we head back to the hotel to clean up and go for supper as it is now 7:30. We find a Mexican restaurant and decide to take a chance, it turned out to be very good and on par with any Mexican restaurant we have visited in Canada. Same recipe’s I suppose.

Lake Nahuel Huapi

Dec. 16-17 Bariloche to Villa La Angostura

We sleep in again, well at least by our standards 7:30 seems like sleeping in, then we take our time at breakfast as I found where the coffee machine is in kitchen. This makes for a quiet morning of sipping coffee and making travel plans for the day. A few cups later it is decided that we will take the scenic lake tour, then double back through Bariloche on our way to Angostura which is back towards the Chilean border. We had filled up with gas there on our way to Bariloche so we are really backtracking. No rush to get anywhere so it doesn’t matter, plus this is a fantastic area that reminds us of the BC Kootenays.

Plus it is only 150km including the loop and the backtracking along the north side of Lake Nahuel Huapi to Villa La Angustura. This was a nice change of pace as we are usually riding most of the day before finding accommodations. Today allowed us the casual pace to have lunch and taking some time to get a feel for the town.

Some children practicing their dance routine in the park.

The info booth was very helpful in the hotel search and we found a very nice Cabana on a quiet street just off the downtown core.

The owners were busy renovating/building another duplex unit which would bring the total 8 units. Once settled we walk the town and realize there are many rental accommodations of all sorts available, partially due to the summer camping and lake season, and equally due to the winter ski season. Yes, ski season, there is a ski hill just a couple of kilometers from town. This explains all the Swiss architecture in town. It seems that anywhere there is hiking or skiing there is a link to Switzerland which overflows into the whole energy and vibe of the area. Chocolatiers, architecture, hiking, cycling, skiing, bakeries, micro-brews. We decide to stay 2 nights as the Cabana is just too cool and we wanted to do a little hiking as well as enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the town.

Brennie enjoying the hike.

A little waterfall we found on our hike.

Drummers in the park could be heard all over town.

This old boy wins Dog of the Day. He must have been run over at least once in his long life. Crooked jaw, twisted leg, seemed like work for him to walk.

Birthday by the Lake.

Dec. 14-15  Osorno to San Carlos de Bariloche

Happy Birthday to Me!!

Osorno lies in the middle of the dairy and cheese production area of Chile, the highway is flanked on both sides by hay fields and cattle. The properties are upscale compared to other farming areas we have seen, and we contribute this partially to the prosperity of the dairy industry and partially to the German influence in the region. Whatever the reason it makes for a pleasant ride which leads us from farmland to lush green mountains. 

  

Beyond that we cross the border out of Chile and into no-mans land, some 20-30 kms later we reach the Argentine border station.  This is one of the largest neutral areas we have come across and it must be due to the volcanic wasteland that makes up most of it. It was a bit spooky to transition from lush green to leafless dead trees. There was also reported to be about 50km of gravel road but we made it all the way to Bariloche on pavement, I guess the info was outdated.

The closer we get to Bariloche the more frequent the police checkpoints are, we go through 5 of them within about as many miles. It did not really make sense what they were checking but we were glad that they never stopped us, instead just waved us on.

Being Sunday the town is rather quiet and shortly after checking into our hotel those dark clouds that were threatening rain opened up with incredible rolls of thunder and even some lightening. We were both very glad to be in the hotel instead of on the road.

Once the rain stopped we took a walking tour of Bariloche, it has all the trapping of a modern tourist destination, plus it is the Chocolate center for the region and claims to have some of the best chocolate makers. It is still a bit cool in the mornings as the wind comes off the lake and works like mother natures air conditioner. Of course when out of the wind it is pleasantly warm and we stroll around the streets looking at all the shops. 

One of the touristy things to do in town is get a picture taken with one of the St. Bernards, complete with Brandy barrels. We just took our own picture of the puppy instead. He also won Dog of the Day. 

For my birthday we enjoy a nice meal at one of the highly rated steak houses and a little bit of chocolate for dessert. Brenda waited patiently all day for this, that may have been why it tasted so good. We are here for two days so there is no rush to do everything in one afternoon.

Wow, we slept in until 7:30. That is a record for us this trip. We are in no rush as we are just planning on hanging around the city and maybe taking a short ride to the end of the lake where there is some beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains. As things go we ended up walking ourselves into an afternoon nap followed by another great meal. It was also time to change more money, this is easily done as there are guys on the street soliciting business. They just ask everyone who walks by if they need money changed or “Cambio? Cambio!” This time we get 12.45:1, still better than the official exchange rate of 8.5.