Georgetown is a bit hectic.

After a very short evening chatting with our host, it is nice to be able to communicate properly again, we both realize we are completely exhausted from the days events and we turn in. I think we fell asleep before 9pm. Unfortunately, all that meant is that we both woke up at 4am and then tossed and turned until 6:30 when we just gave in and got up. We had a couple of minor errands to run and because our plan was to move up the road a short 150km we were in no rush, and our hostess was in no rush for us to leave either. We ate our little breakfast then went for a walk to the bus depot to talk with a couple of the drivers to get some accurate info about the road condition to Lethem. This is a 400km section of dirt road that can become impassible if too wet. 

Not us, buy you get the picture of what happens when it is to wet.

They say the road is “pretty good” with a few short muddy sections. He does inform us that we need to buy a pass for the road due to the size of our bikes. First we heard of this but he was not trying to sell it to us and directed us to a supermarket down the street. Sounded legit so we go there and ask, the ticket girl looked at us like we were crazy and said we did not need a pass for a motorcycle no matter what size. Handy that we are in a supermarket because the last task was to buy some water and see what they have for road snacks.

Errands complete it is time to pack up and head off to Linden, where the dirt road starts. This will be our launch point early in the morning and is only about 150km from Georgetown, but it gives us a needed fuel station and shortens the following days ride to the dirt section and also saves us precious time in the morning.

Nice building but the scaffold at the top is a bit tricky.

We battle through the Georgetown traffic snarl and finally get to the South edge of town, the density has thinned out at this point and the main attraction at this end o f town seems to be the Int’l Airport. We later find out that it is a limited Int’l Airport but I will explain later. The terrain has changed from pure jungle to a bit of white dessert sand mixed with jungle. This also means that some agriculture can take place and we see pineapple and Honey vendors along the road as well as some veggies and what looks like pickled hot peppers.

Pineapple break.

Linden is actually made up of two villages, Wismar on one side of the river and Linden on the other. There is a large cargo ship anchored at the Bauxite mine port, getting filled with the mineral that is a main ingredient in making Aluminum products. We are very surprised that there is a small toll to pay in order to get across the river. GYD$20 (about $0.15) each is more of a hassle to get out of my pocket than it is worth but I suppose they will eventually pay for a new bridge because the one they got is only one lane wide and made of an assortment of materials. 

Toll both at Wismar bridge. Elaborate price list.

The Riverview Hotel is the only option in town so we are a bit nervous about what we will get, it turns out to be a rather nice hotel with clean rooms and lobby parking for our bikes. We check in then go fill the bikes and get some supper, there ready for the dirt road adventure the next day. I guess Chinese food on the edge of the Amazon is not a good option, it was however the only option, as it gave me an upset stomach which led to a discussion about the upcoming route. 

The top deck provides a good viewing spot.

A South African friend posted a list of things to help identify an Adventure Traveler, one item on the list is "having the ability to ride in sand and not soil your shorts when you fart."

The Chinese Restaurant looked harmless enough. It even has a lantern.

At the moment I do not think I could pass that test. Plus, once we get across the jungle we then have to take a five day river ride from Manaus to Porto Velho and the last boat ride was fun but 24hrs was much better than five days, so we decide to return to Georgetown and inquire into shipping options. We let our hosts know that we may return tonight or maybe not then head back to the big city.

Now a little side note that falls into the category of “Things you do not see at home.”

While sitting on the veranda at the hotel we noticed a taxi cab stop across the street. An elderly lady, a young man, a woman and infant get out of the car. The elderly lady takes a stroll up the street a little bit to where there is a Ship’s wheel monument then returns to the cab. The cab driver opens the hatchback on his car a the young man drags a live pig out of the trunk. The pig is wearing a dog harness type leash so we assume it is there farm animal and they are catching a river boat to their village. The leash just serves to control the pig. We watch in secret as they drag the pig to water’s edge waiting for their boat. The young guy finds a large branch in the tall grass and proceeds to beat the pig to death. This is a bit disturbing but when in Rome. Unfortunately for the pig the stick is not heavy enough or being wheeled with enough force to do the job and after a few hits to the head the pig falls over, only to regain consciousness and receive a couple more hits. Finally the pig is down long enough for Mama to pull a big knife out of her fancy purse and cuts it throat. Okay, I guess it is easier to transport a dead pig than a live one in a canoe. Oh contraire, they take the leash off and just walk away, leaving twitching pig on the riverbank for the birds to eat. Of course we had to ask our host what that was about, he did not seem to know and just replied “Old Ways”, which we then clued in to be a ritual killing without much ritual. Sweet dreams.