Viva La Mexico

The border was confusing at first, we made it through the military style barricades on the US side, then over the metal speed bumps (about the size of ½ a cantelope) on the Mexico side, through the gate after only one question from a kid with sidearm and we were off. After driving for a few kilometres I began to wonder where the check point/inspection/permit office was. Upon returning to gate, we found a fella in uniform and asked where we get the vehicle import permit and visitor visa. He informed us that it was 21km down the road in the direction from which we just came. OK, now we had to go back through the gate past the same kid with the sidearm, again he asked where we were going and for how long,(I wanted to say (the same as 10 minutes ago, but decided not to provoke him) and then wanted to search my saddlebags. After a quick look into one bag he waived us on. Now, for the easy part, the actual paperwork/entry fees/windshield stamp all the good stuff needed for an extended stay. Total cost for two people and two bikes $1422pesos, YAY we are in Mexico. By the end of the day we also paid $160pesos in tolls by the time we made it to Hermosillo. Sorry no photos of the US border or Mexican Gate only of the immigration office.



Hermosillo, our first stop in Mexico, is partially a very modern city and partially what has been determined, by our limited exposure, to be "old Mexico". With it’s run down narrow streets, old buildings, older vehicles and very friendly people. We found all this out while going in circles trying to find the hotel that was recommended to us, did I mention that it was also about 35C. Once found, ok we never did find the recommended one. But, OUR hotel was nice and if you don’t believe me just ask any one of the six armed guards who seemed to stand at their post diligently waiting for something to happen and an excuse to use their shotguns and/or machine guns. Luckily while we were there nothing ever did happen worthy of gun fire.



Here we also had our first run-in with the Policia. That didn’t take long. We had made an illegal u-turn apparently, but because we do not speak Spanish the signs don’t count. It is a good thing he didn’t follow us out of town, because the illegal u-turn was the least of our driving infractions. However, all confusing things must come to an end and we found the highway and were once again making some miles.

Mex16 is a modern highway, nicely paved and painted but with narrow shoulders. It took us south towards Guyamas then we diverted onto Mex22 which leads into the Copper Canyon, our first major tourist stop. Quite the road, I wish we had this type of road closer to home. Along the road at some unpronouncable town, we stopped for a leg stretch and were quickly surrounded by an entourage of men, all ages, dressed in the latest Fox Motocross racing gear. Ok, this is odd. They were on the way to a quading location up the road, nice enough guys, some spoke English, and all were anxious for us to join them on their quading trip. Near as I could tell, it was up a dried river bed about 100km from the drop off point to one of the older gentleman's ranch. He also invited us to stay with his family at the ranch then head out from there in the morning, as there are banditos along the route. We gracefully declined, partially because the only people in this area were likely the bandits, and these guys were decked out with new 4x4's, enclosed trailers, new quads, etc.etc.


The fella just over my head is the gentleman with the ranch.


Rte16 started relatively straight so we figured we could make it the Creel that day. Shortly after the meeting with the quad group, the road changed from long sweeping curves to absolute motorcycle heaven. About 100km of twisties and 3 hours, gets you to Yecora. We ran out of daylight and heeding the bandito warning we stayed in Yecora. This is a mining and farming town in the high country of the Sierra Madre mountain range.


This is a sample of Rte.16


The Strip.

But...don’t let the quiet little 3 square block village fool you, after dark every piece of crap vehicle in town cruises "the strip", which happened to be in front of our hotel. But...the good news is they shut down or break down around midnight, just in time for the million or so stray dogs to take over in various forms of barking and fighting, at least they know enough to do it on the main drag so everyone can enjoy the ruckus. Again, our hotel was very clean and the clerk was patient with our Spanish. So after an entertaining night, we woke to frost on the bikes and a flat rear tire on mine. NICE. I checked out the tire and could not see any punctures so I pumped it up and assumed some kids let the air our. Everything happens for a reason, so now the frost had melted as the sun was warming the mountain range and another 120km or so of twisties will get us to Creel.
Did I mention that we have not known the actual time of day for about three days. How great it is.

Creel is the gateway to the Copper Canyon, there are many many hotels here and lots of shops catering to the tourist’s need for trinkets and souvenirs. The town itself is pretty much in shambles though, despite its location and potential goldmine of tourism. But once again, this is what the real Mexico looks like, not the fancy all inclusive resorts of the coastal areas. Mexico is still a very poor country and it is evident at every turn. Once again we lucked out with a clean hotel and appeared to be the only guests, except for a dog who got into the garbage and a horse who got into the parking lot.



Once again frost on the bikes in the morning, but we were not in any rush and by the time I fixed the flat tire on my bike it was plenty warm. First puncture, some kind of metal, I guess it wasn't the kids in Yecora after all, just a very slow leak.



Can't say much about Copper Canyon, other than it is awesome. I imagine that it is like the Grand Canyon was 20+ years ago. Meaning you can stand right out on the outcroppings and look over the edge. No guard rails, no rules. Park admission 20pesos, so for under two bucks it is hard to complain.